The dos and don'ts of grooming men's eyebrows | British GQ

Oct 16, 2024

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Of all the tricky grooming hills to climb, men's eyebrows may be the trickiest. Get them right and you're flying — compliments and great selfies on tap. Get them wrong and patchy, bushy, unruly brows may just dog you for the next six weeks. The thought alone is enough to make you want to never touch them in the first place.

But that's the fear talking. Taking care of your eyebrows — and getting them into neat, handsome shape — is easy when you know what you're doing. Whether you've got thin sparse ones; thick, hairy ones; brows patchy from hair loss; or ones in need of a little dye, it's only a few steps between here and great brows.

And ‘great’ doesn’t mean picture-perfect, mind. In fact, some of the best eyebrows out there are good because they’re unique to their owners.

“I love Liam Gallagher’s brows and how he embraced his unibrow — it really adds to his look. I love the embracing of perceived ‘flaws’ and making them something unique to your face and style,” says Sara Wren, director of artistry at Milk Makeup. “Will Poulter also has this amazing arch shape to his brows that really add to what he can do with his ‘brow’ acting.”

But you can still keep your brows well-groomed and unique at the same time. You just need the right tools in your belt. Before you step into the world of tweezing, threading and pomades, get your head around the basics first. GQ tapped the best brow experts to talk shapes and sizes, making them thicker, thinner, dying them, and everything in between.

It goes without saying that your eyebrows are unique to your face, so your face should be the guiding factor here. Jaimineey Patel, head of training at Blink Brow Bar, says that, as a general rule: “Arched brows work well for round faces, as they add definition, rounder eyebrows compliment men with wide eyes and broader forehead and enhance the overall facial features.

“Flat yet thick brows are great for those with smaller eyes, as they emphasise the brows. Straighter brows are always popular with men with oval-shaped faces as they add balance.”

As Patel says, go slow and plan ahead. “Mapping brows is a great way to determine shape before hair removal. Taking a pencil and placing it at the inner corner of your nostril, to mark the start of your brows. Then swivel the pencil to the outer side of the iris, that is where the arch should sit and then further swivel to the end of the eye to mark where the brow tails off. Use this mapping and outline the brows, then pluck only excess hair following the mapped out shape.

“Try to then put your tweezers down until you have full growth back to encourage a cycle for a cleaner finish when taking care of brows. Another tip is to get good grip tweezers and be careful to pull from the root to avoid breakage and stubble.”

Plucking and waxing aren’t your only options for eyebrow hair removal. ‘Threading,’ when the hair is rolled between two fine threads and pulled out gently, is an alternative.

"Eyebrow threading gives a more precise result than waxing and can be done in half the time with appointments taking 15 minutes or less. You don't get ingrown hairs with threading like you do with waxing, and it's a lot gentler on the skin. When done correctly threading can be a minimal-pain procedure with results lasting up to three weeks,” says Barber Social's David Olds.

“Tweezing eyebrows is very similar to threading as it uses the same plucking technique but can only remove brow hairs one by one. It's a great way to maintain eyebrow shape at home in between threading appointments.”

When your brows get too long, trimming the ends can keep everything neat. Olds says: “Eyebrow trimming with scissors or clipper-over-comb can be key to maintaining the perfect brow, keeping hairs at the same length and avoiding any long strays. This is called an eyebrow trim and any good barber will offer the service.”

But should you do it with scissors or with clippers? If it's a DIY job, some sharp scissors will do the trick — leave the clippers to the pros. Shavata Singh, founder of Shavata brow and lash studios, says: “I would always recommend using straight nail scissors, a brow brush and comb. Go lightly, to avoid altering the shape or creating bald patches.”

The key is moderation. Don’t go too hard, too early. Says Wren: “Never take away too much hair. Men’s brows are naturally more bushy, thicker and longer. I think when men start to wax or pluck too many hairs they lose balance in their facial structure. If you are plucking your own brows in the mirror, make sure to step back every two to three hairs plucked and check your work!”

She’s right. Two or three hairs taken from the wrong place in your eyebrows can drastically change your look. Tweeze wisely.

If you’ve got finer brows, or you’re seeing patchy spots, you can use products to make them appear fuller.

"Eyebrow pencils are increasingly popular among clients with thin eyebrows for creating a thicker appearance. When it comes to choosing a pencil, finding the correct colour for your brow is essential and you should look for a colour that's as close to your natural hair colour as possible,” says Olds.

“Eyebrow tinting is another great way to visually thicken eyebrows and create depth on light coloured or thin eyebrows. It is recommended to get this done professionally to ensure no reaction with the ingredients and to ensure the colour match is perfect. It can also be done alongside threading to stencil a shape ready for the tint to be applied.”

If you’d like to get your brows darker and more uniform permanently, dyeing them is an easy way to achieve the look. Patel says: “Opt for a colour that is one shade darker than your natural hair colour, any darker and it may look too harsh. If using an at-home tint then don't leave the tint on for too long, you can always remove and reapply until you achieve the desired results.

“You don't need to visit a professional, as there are many at-home options, unless you are nervous and it is your first time, having your first tint professionally will also assist you with colour matching. The at-home tint kits will have clear instructions to follow through, BBB At-Home Tint kit comes in three shades, from light brown to dark brown, if unsure choose the lighter shade and reapply for an intense colour. The product is designed to be a gentler formula, for at-home use. With any option, professional or at-home, it's important to have a patch test 48 hours prior to the treatment to check for any adverse reaction.”

Blink Brow Bar

Blink Brow Bar

Blink Brow Bar

Blink Brow Bar

Don’t panic. Loss of volume or hair in your eyebrows is normal, and easy to fix. In the short term, there are heaps of products that can make your brows appear fuller. For a long-term fix, Singh says: “If you're experiencing a loss of volume in your brows, applying castor oil every night can help by nourishing the hair follicles and promoting growth.

“Using a clean spoolie brush, comb the oil through the brows, taking care to then massage it into the skin beneath. Leave on overnight and wash off in the morning.”

Shop GQ's edit of the best eyebrow tools.

Tweezerman

Look Fantastic

What it is: High-precision brow-trimming duoWhat it does: Thins brows out and cuts stray hairsHow to use it: Brush brows up to determine which hairs need trimming, turn scissors sideways so that lower curve is at brow bone. Use the precision tips to isolate and gently lift hair to be cut

The starting point for any well-groomed brow-line is to get the foundations set. This brow-shaping scissor and brush combo, from world-class precision grooming tool specialist, Tweezerman, has been cleverly designed to help trim stray hairs effortlessly and keep everything in its place. Featuring ultra-thin blades that have been custom designed to trim brow hair, the stainless-steel scissors have a uniquely contoured body that allows for easier handling and greater control. The brush helps you to define the brow shape and determine which hairs need cutting as you trim and sculpt. Use the specially-designed precision tips on the scissors to isolate and gently lift hair to be trimmed, and only cut one hair at a time.

Milk Makeup

Space NK

What it is: Hydrating and strong brow gelWhat it does: Keeps brows styled in place and conditions brow hairHow to use it: Apply in short upward strokes to shape the brow into place

A mainstay in Milk Makeup’s rotation, the Kush Clear Brow Gel keeps things firmly in place without that uncomfortable, ‘crunchy’ feeling that thick gels or sprays can sometimes have. It’s made with cannabis-seed oil to nourish and condition the brows, while aloe and cucumber extracts keeps everything feeling soft. Despite being super flexible, the formula is designed to keep things in place for hours, so once you style them in the morning, your brows will still be in place when you get home (whenever that is).

Gucci

Gucci

What it is: High-definition, double-ended pencilWhat it does: Fills in patches and helps define brow shapeHow to use it: Apply to bare brows, outlining or filling in the gaps

Gucci’s waterproof brow pencil has been purposefully designed with an ultra-fine, triangular nib edge to allow for a very precise, buildable and believable brow finish. Dual-ended with a tapered-head, soft-bristled brush at the other side to help shape the brow and blend colour, it's a very dynamic tool for both drawing-on and filling in the brows. Smudge-proof and migrate proof, it has a non-drying, weightless texture and emulates real-life brow hair. Available in six shades, from a light blonde to a deep black (there is even a grey for the older gent), a good tip to keeping things looking real is to always go one shade cooler than the natural colour of your hair.

Chanel

John Lewis

What it is: Retractable double-ended pencil and brushWhat it does: Defines brow shape and helps fill in patchesHow to use it: Brush through brows to gently build up colour

When industry titan Chanel announced it was to launch a makeup collection designed specifically for men, it sent a message that man-friendly cosmetics were ready to hit the mainstream. One of the highlights of the Boy de Chanel line is its retractable eyebrow defining pencil. Available in five shades (from blonde through to black), it features a slanted tip that makes it easier to define the shape and colour in the brow with an adjustable thin or thick application. Made from natural melt-away film-forming waxes, it is a little drier and firmer in texture compared with Chanel’s equivalent pencil for women, offering great control and a matte and natural-looking finish. A double-ended tool; the other side features a spiral brush to help groom the brow into shape and seamlessly blend in the colour. Waterproof and long-wear, it can also be used to fill in beards and facial hair.

Tom Ford

Selfridges

What it is: Strong-hold mascara gelWhat it does: Tames and defines to frame the faceHow to use it: Comb the brush through brow and allow to set

Tom Ford has always been an advocate for looking your best self and a trailblazer in the cosmetics designed for men revolution. Pushing the boundaries with products that we never knew we wanted or needed, like the now-iconic Brow Laminator, which was developed to bring balance and symmetry to your features. A lightweight gel that tames and defines the brows to frame the face, it adds a soft, natural-looking sheen and can be used on all hair colours and skin tones. Completely transparent, it is easy-to-apply with a brush-tipped wand; a bit like a mascara. To use, comb the brush through the brow in the direction of hair growth to define and shape.

Trish McEvoy

Trish McEvoy

What it is: Pomade-textured pencilWhat it does: Tames and groomsHow to use it: Stroke through the brow following the direction of hair growth

Makeup artist and industry innovator, Trish McEvoy, is widely acknowledged as a pioneer of the ‘barely-there’ cosmetics movement. This understanding of how to achieve a natural look is obviously well-suited to men who are simply looking to improve upon what nature has already given them. This vegan-friendly, wax-based pencil, effectively tames and grooms unruly brows, offers all-day hold and is free from any parabens and sulphates. Available as a lightly pigmented (two shades – natural and natural brunette) or clear pomade crayon, it enhances brows with a lightweight, flexible and invisible hold, empowering precision placement. Applied by gently stroking through brows into the desired shape (following the direction of hair growth), the transparent formula (featured here) can be used on either bare or colour-enhanced brows, on its own or over Trish’s Precision Brow Shaper.

Typology

Typology

What it is: Strengthening and conditioning serum formulated for eyebrows and eyelashesWhat it does: Nourishes and promotes hair growthHow to use it: Remove the brush from the bottle and apply to brows in upward strokes (use on eyelashes in much the same way you would a mascara)

This targeted, dual-action and colourless serum has been specifically formulated to nourish and strengthen both the eyelashes and eyebrows. Vegan and made from concentrated active ingredients (96 per cent are naturally derived), it should be used religiously every evening to promote healthy, fuller hair growth. Enriched with castor oil and pea peptides which work in synergy to densify and fortify eyebrow and eyelash hair, it is suitable for all skin types and can be used in combination with (apply serum first and allow to soak in) any colour enhancing or brow setting/defining grooming aids. It also comes with an easy-to-apply brush-ended wand.

Dior

Dior

What it is: Clear mascaraWhat it does: Promotes natural-looking depth and a silky, weightless finishHow to use it: Apply the brush in upward strokes

Dior’s high-performance gel mascara has been enriched with microfibres to promote fuller-looking, lifted and perfectly groomed brows. Made with 90 per cent ingredients of natural origin, it actively boosts volume (excluding the clear option) and is available in several tints; universal (clear), blonde, brown, black and dark brown. A long-wear, waterproof formula, it sets the brows with a unique 3D effect with a natural-looking finish and promises 24-hour hold. The brush has been designed specifically for the eyebrow area, precisely defining the arch and grooming the brows without ever leaving them feeling stiff.

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